SESAMULS® WO & OW

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TECHNICAL DATA

In Umbria, in the green heartland of Italy, is where the SOCRI Technical Centre operates. It is here that we research and develop new products and processes to minimise environmental impact and either reduce the use of harmful substances or eliminate them entirely. It is with these goals in mind that SOCRI has created and perfected two emulsifiers made using sesame oil produced in Italy, rich in unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats (oleic and linoleic acid 40%). It contains an unsaponifiable fraction (1.5%), which guarantees the oil's high stability, thanks to the presence of three natural antioxidants: sesamol, sesamolin and sesamin, crucial for combating the formation of free radicals. It also contains vitamins, mainly A, E and the B group (B1, B2, and B3), and eight important essential amino acids.
The originality of this project lies is the fact that it has been able to take sesame oil's priceless virtues and transfer them to a range of emulsifiers that are state-of-the-art, effective and safe.

The emulsifiers


By means of a sophisticated process for the esterification of sesame oil’s fatty acids, SOCRI has created the two emulsifiers that belong to the SESAMULS® family: one for O/W systems and the other for W/O systems.
Both form a lattice of liquid crystals within the emulsion, which makes it possible to easily formulate highly stable systems that perform well and have a pleasant feel.
The eudermic properties of sesame oil make it possible to create emulsions characterised not only by their pleasantly silky and fluid feel, but also by their moisturising and protective properties.
The gel-lattice formed by the emulsifier stabilizes the system and the cream has the effect of reducing TEWL.
Numerous studies have shown that liquid-crystal emulsions improve skin hydration over both the short and long term. The percentage of intralamellar water in these liquid-crystal structures can reach up to 70%, and it is immediately available from the moment the cream is applied to the skin and the crystal lattice begins to break down.
Emulsions formulated with SESAMULS® are satiny and shiny in appearance. Although they contain high percentages of lipid phases, they have a novel feel that is soft and dry to the touch. The emulsion’s lattice structure allows it to incorporate large quantities of natural high-polarity lipids without compromising the final stability of the emulsion itself.
It is possible, regardless of the polarity of the lipid phase, to formulate emulsions containing natural oils as their sole source of lipids, thus obtaining completely natural emulsions.
The benefits of liquid-crystal structures made with SESAMULS® are: 

  • Stabilisation of the viscosity of the emulsion even in the presence of lipid phases with different polarities
  • A refreshing effect combined with moisturising and protective effects
  • High skin absorption
  • Easy delivery of active ingredients


The ongoing shift towards environmentally-friendly lifestyles has led us to favour the use of substances of natural origin, laying the foundations for a fruitful marriage of modern cosmetic techniques and nature's age-old benefits. A cosmetic can be seen as a multifunctional complex, to which each ingredient contributes, either individually or through its interaction with the others, to providing the product with its functional efficacy and sensory characteristics.

SESAMULS® OW


SESAMULS® OW ( INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether, Sesame Oil, Succinic Acid) is a “PEG-free” emulsifier that can be used in the formulation of emulsions that are particularly fresh and light, pleasantly velvety to the touch and enriched with the eudermic functional properties of Sesame Oil. Sesame Oil is a raw material that is in harmony with nature, meeting the needs of a market that favours products that are gentle and friendly to both the skin and the environment.

It is made entirely from plant-derived raw materials:

  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified)
  • Cetyl alcohol (RSPO certified)
  • Sesame oil
  • Succinic acid


The particular bond between the hydrophilic component and the lipophilic chain ensures that the molecule has strong stability and an excellent resistance to hydrolysis. The synthesis does not require the use of ethylene oxide, nor does it use chemical reagents or organic solvents. The raw material is fully dispersible in water. It is able to form liquid crystal lamellar structures without the need for co-emulsifiers and regardless of the chemical nature and polarity of the substances present in the internal phase of the emulsion.
When present at the oil/water interface, the liquid crystals contribute to lending the system rigidity and, by reducing the fluctuation of the components at the interface, they imbue the emulsion with a high degree of stability. The liquid crystal system moisturises and protects the epidermis. It has, in fact, been proven that liquid-crystal emulsions moisturise the epidermis ( Figura 1 ) and protect it by reducing TEWL.

INCREASED SKIN HYDRATION (IN-VIVO)

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The high quantity of intralamellar water becomes available the moment the cream is applied to the skin.
For these reasons, emulsions created using SESAMULS® O/ W are satiny, fresh and shiny in appearance and leave a pleasant sensation on the skin.
They have the following properties:
  • Remarkable stability at both high and low temperatures.
  • Good resistance to water, thanks to the formation of a hydrophobic film on the surface.
  • High-quality sensory characteristics: emollient effect/long-lasting moisturising effect.
  • Particularly shiny in appearance; easy and pleasant to apply.

SESAMULS® O / W fits in perfectly with the current market trends because it is a product that is natural and pure, with excellent emulsifying ability and excellent technical virtues:


  • It can be used with a wide range of cosmetic oils, including mineral and vegetable oils and silicones, without compromising the stability of the emulsion.
  • The emulsion’s final viscosity is determined exclusively by the percentage of emulsifier
  • It makes it possible to formulate stable creams that are 100% plant-derived in origin.
  • The product is extremely gentle.


Emulsification procedure


With SESAMULS® O / W is possible to create creams or cosmetic milks without the need for an additional ethoxylated hydrophilic co-emulsifier.
The recommended percentage of use is 3-5% in cosmetic milks or lotions and 4-6% in creams
The recommended procedure is as follows:

  • Add SESAMULS® O/W to a portion of the aqueous phase (about 2/3) and heat it to 65° C.
  • Melt the oleaginous phase and slowly add in the portion of the aqueous phase that contains the emulsifier, stirring vigorously all the while.
  • Proceed to form the emulsion in the usual fashion.
  • Process it using a combined agitator/turbo-emulsifier. Homogenise the mixture intensely.
  • Stir with moderate intensity while cooling.
  • Add in any heat-sensitive ingredients while stirring with moderate intensity and homogenise the mixture.

SESAMULS® WO

SESAMULS® WO ( INCI : Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate, Sesame Oil, Succinic Acid) is an excellent “PEG-free” water-in-oil emulsifier obtained through the esterification of Polyglyceryn-6 with fatty acid whereas the natural succinic acid acts as catalyst. It is a “green” product, made entirely from plant-derived raw materials:

  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified)
  • Fatty acids from the olive fruit 
  • Sesame oil
  • Succinic acid


It allows for the use of any type of lipid, polar or apolar, without any special differences in the final outcome. This characteristic makes it remarkably useful for the preparation of emulsions that demand: ease of production, versatility of formulation, and stability in conditions of heat or cold. Emulsions formulated with SESAMULS® W/O are easily absorbed and, despite being rich in natural lipids, are neither greasy nor sticky. W/O emulsions usually require a greater amount of mechanical agitation compared to O/W emulsions, and the homogenisation stage is important if you are to attain an optimal final result. The consistency and the homogeneity of the lipid phase, as well as the dispersion of the aqueous phase, all depend on the homogenisation.
In cosmetic emulsions, the lipid phase is often composed of substances that are quite different from each other in terms of both their chemical properties and their polarities. Extremely polar oils possess considerable solubilising abilities and bear a much greater similarity to the skin's own lipids than do paraffin derivatives. Nonetheless, given that they do not behave in a completely lipophilic fashion, it can be slightly difficult to add them to stable emulsions. It is easier to produce W/O emulsions with medium- to low-polarity lipids.
SESAMULS® W / O acts as a W / O emulsifier and creates a liquid-crystal lattice with moisturising and protective properties, well-suited to even the most sensitive skin types. It facilitates the dispersion of any sort of powder, from titanium dioxide to iron oxides, and is therefore a versatile ingredient for make-up and suncare formulations. It functions as a shine-enhancer in lip glosses and make-up products in general.

It is liquid and therefore makes it possible to emulsify at low temperatures (cold processing), a production system that offers a number of advantages compared to hot processing:

  • Energy savings: by eliminating the heating stage, the amount of energy used in production is reduced drastically.
  • Cost savings: energy is expensive, and saving energy means saving money.
  • A simpler process: given that they are liquid, the ingredients are easier to handle and the entire procedure is simplified.
  • Time savings: the process is made shorter and more rapid because the heating and cooling stages are eliminated.
  • An increase in production capacity: multiple batches can be made simultaneously.
  • Sustainable and environmentally-friendly: less energy consumption means fewer CO2 emissions and therefore a process with less environmental impact.


Finally, SESAMULS® W/O can help you to:  
  • Formulate rich and nourishing creams and lotions for even the most sensitive skin types
  • Distribute physical UV filters evenly within suncare products, ensuring greater protection against UV rays.
  • Increase products’ water retention capacity
  • Improve the shine of make-up products


Emulsification procedure


With SESAMULS® W / O it is possible to prepare W/O emulsions using cold-processing techniques, provided that both phases contain only ingredients that are liquid at room temperature.

Otherwise, if not all of the ingredients are liquid at room temperature, then a “partial cold-process” can be used.

The principal characteristics of the emulsifiers from the SESAMULS® range (O/W and W/O) are as follows:

100% derived from renewable plant sources
PEG-free
Excellent emulsifying properties combined with refined sensory qualities
Liquid-crystal emulsions (in vivo moisturisation testing)
Easy to use, stable and compatible under extreme anionic and cationic conditions across a wide range of pH values (pH 3-9)
Proven energy savings (low energy-consumption emulsification)
A better alternative to the PEG emulsifiers on the market
COSMOS-standard certified
REACH exempt

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