PG4 ACTIVE AA-BET



PG4 active AA-BET is a modern and unique form of hydrosoluble azelaic acid, which remains intact and not in the form of a salt, unlike other azelaic acid derivatives that exist on the market.
Azelaic acid fell into disuse and was eventually abandoned due to the technical problems linked to the difficulty of solubilising it in water, arising from its high melting point (120° C) and the risk of crystallisation during cooling. For a long time it was used in a particulate form, to be dispersed in an emulsion. However, in that form it cannot manifest its properties or its true cosmetic effect. 

PG4 active AA-BET has solved these problems and is the only solution that makes it possible to use hydrosoluble azelaic acid for cosmetic applications.
The product takes the form of a highly viscous, plastic and transparent gel with a characteristic odour. It is extremely easy to use, requires no additional steps, does not crystallise, and dissolves completely in hot water. In this innovative complex, the azelaic acid remains pure and may be added to aqueous solutions, gels and emulsions without causing any dispersion or crystallisation issues. When used in gels, PG4 active AA-BET imparts a slight opalescence which does not, however, indicate any sort of stability issue.

PG4 active AA-BET has the following properties:

  • Completely soluble in water and in hydroalcoholic systems.
  • Contains no preservatives.
  • Stable over a broad pH range.
  • Compatible with non-ionics, anionics and cationics.
  • Can act as a solvent and a carrier of active ingredients.
  • Wetting and dispersing agent for particulates.
  • Superficial hygroscopic behaviour due to the polyglycerol chain, which translates into long-term moisturising effects.
  • An efficacious stabilising effect in emulsions.


Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid, which is a 90% inhibitor of the enzyme 5-alpha H-reductase, active in androgen synthesis. It is a natural substance produced by Malassezia furfur (also known as Pityrosporum ovale), a yeast found on normal skin. It occurs naturally in wheat, rye and barley.

Acne treatment: azelaic acid is used to treat mild to moderate forms of acne, either comedonal or inflammatory. It functions by blocking the growth of the skin bacteria that cause acne and cleaning the skin's pores. 

Hair loss: azelaic acid is useful as a hair growth stimulant. A study conducted by Stamatiadis in 1988 suggested that azelaic acid (including when complexed with the zinc ion and vitamin B6) was a powerful type-I 5-alpha-reductase (5-AR) inhibitor. The 5-AR enzyme (types I and II) converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which contributes to the enlargement of the prostate (benign prostatic hyperplasia, or BPH) and damages the hair follicles.
Used topically, it has been proven to have good anti-androgenic properties, inhibiting by competition the type-I 5-alpha reductase enzyme, which binds to testosterone to create the DHT, notorious for being damaging for hair that is genetically predisposed to suffer its effects. Moreover, its numerous antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as its potential to be used as an adjuvant in the treatment of cornification disorders and against free radicals, make it a good active ingredient that can be used as part of mixed treatments to fight baldness.

Depigmentation agent: can reduce pigmentation in an especially efficacious manner in subjects with very dark skin, and subjects who suffer from melasma, lentigines or spots resulting from acne inflammation.

Azelaic acid is:

  • Antibacterial: it reduces the growth of bacteria in the follicles (Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis).
  • Keratolytic and comedolytic: normalises the anomalous growth of epidermal cells, which surround the follicle.
  • Combats free radicals and reduces inflammation.
  • Reduces pigmentation: it is especially efficacious for patients with very dark skin, who suffer from melasma or lentigines resulting from acne.
  • It is non-toxic and well-tolerated in most cases.


The azelaic acid used in PG4 active AA-BET has a minimum concentration of 30%. It is non-toxic and well-tolerated by most patients.
The monoester of azelaic acid along with the polyglycerol produced by SOCRI are combined with betaine, a natural substance extracted from the sugar beet (Beta vulgaris). Betaine, also known as trimethylglycine, is a well-known methylating agent; in other words, it is capable of adding methyl groups (CH3) to a variety of substances. The presence of betaine makes it possible to greatly reduce the irritating effect of azelaic acid, which would otherwise cause some side effects such as tingling or itching, skin redness, dryness or peeling.



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