OLEAMULS®

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SUMMARY TABLE

INCI NAME - COMPONENTS

Polyglyceryl-4 StearatePotassium Olivate

CATEGORY

Functional Vegetal Derivatives

REPRESENTENTED COMPANY

SOCRI

FUNCTIONS

SOLUBILITY

APPEARANCE



TECHNICAL DATA

In Umbria, in the green heartland of Italy, is where the SOCRI Technical Centre operates. It is here that we research and develop new products and processes to minimise environmental impact and either reduce the use of harmful substances or eliminate them entirely. It is with these goals in mind that SOCRI has created and perfected three emulsifiers made using Italian olive oil. Out of all the natural lipids, olive oil has the greatest skin compatibility. The originality of this project lies is the fact that it has been able to take olive oil's priceless virtues and transfer them to a range of emulsifiers that are state-of-the-art, effective and safe.

The emulsifiers

By means of a sophisticated process for the esterification of olive oil's fatty acids, SOCRI has created the three emulsifiers that belong to the OLEAMULS® family: one for O/W systems, another for W/O systems, and a third which can be cold-processed to make ultra-low viscosity emulsions.
All three form a lattice of liquid crystals within the emulsion, which make it possible to easily formulate stable systems imbued with a remarkable cosmetic sensory appeal.
Olive oil’s characteristic ability to promote healthy, well-balanced skin makes it possible to create emulsions distinguished not only by their pleasantly silky and fluid feel, but also by their moisturising and protective properties.
The gel-lattice formed by the emulsifier stabilizes the system and the cream penetrates rapidly into the skin, reducing TEWL.
Numerous studies have shown that liquid-crystal emulsions improve skin hydration over both the short and long term. The percentage of intralamellar water in these liquid-crystal structures can reach up to 70%, and it is immediately available from the moment the cream is applied to the skin and the crystal lattice begins to break down.
This is the reason behind the “refreshing” effect felt at the moment of application.
Emulsions formulated with the OLEAMULS® are satiny and shiny in appearance. Although they contain high percentages of lipid phases, they have a novel feel that is soft and light. The emulsion’s lattice structure allows it to incorporate large quantities of natural high-polarity lipids without compromising the final stability of the emulsion itself.

It is possible, regardless of the polarity of the lipid phase, to formulate emulsions containing natural oils as their sole source of lipids. We can thus obtain completely natural emulsions as well as easily-absorbed oil-free systems with an evanescent texture.
The benefits of liquid-crystal structures made with OLEAMULS® are:

  • Stabilisation of the viscosity of the emulsion even in the presence of lipid phases with different polarities
  • A refreshing effect combined with moisturising and protective effects
  • High skin absorption
  • Easy delivery of active ingredients

The ongoing shift towards environmentally-friendly lifestyles has led us to favour the use of substances of natural origin, laying the foundations for a fruitful marriage of modern cosmetic techniques and nature's age-old benefits. A cosmetic can be seen as a multifunctional complex, to which each ingredient contributes, either individually or through its interaction with the others, to providing the product with its functional efficacy and sensory characteristics.

OLEAMULS® O/W

OLEAMULS® O/W ( INCI : Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Potassium Olivate ) has an innovative structure composed of polyglycerol ether/ester and is derived from raw materials from renewable sources:

  • Italian olive oil
  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified)

Its structure allows for a wide variety of formulation possibilities because it is not strongly affected by the relative degree of hydrophilicity of the lipids used in the emulsion. Present at the oil/water interface, the liquid crystals that are formed have a stabilising effect on the emulsion, imbuing the system with rigidity and minimising fluctuation of the components at the interphase. The emulsions obtained are therefore stable and particularly resistant to variations in temperature.

OLEAMULS® O/W represents a valid alternative to emulsifiers containing PEG. It furthermore possesses outstanding functional and sensory properties. Used at between 3% and 6% as a sole emulsifier, it makes it possible to create emulsions of varied consistencies which imbue the skin with moisture and nourishment, combined with a light and silky feel, even when used in formulations containing a high percentage of lipids.

Its principal characteristics are:

  • It is a PEG-free and palm-oil free emulsifier derived from renewable raw materials of Italian origin
  • Easy to use
  • Remarkably versatile in terms of formulation and compatibility with all active ingredients
  • Extremely well-tolerated by the skin
  • Environmentally-friendly

Can be used in formulations with fat phases composed of substances of diverse chemical nature and different polarities. Lipids that are hard to work with, such as vegetable triglycerides and silicone derivatives, can be emulsified without particular difficulty.
The emulsions obtained are satiny, and impart a novel refreshing sensation to the skin. They imbue the skin with long-lasting moisture and nourishment, have a highly pleasant texture and are especially stable when exposed to extreme changes in temperature.
Emulsification procedure

OLEAMULS® O/W
produces O/W systems with good density, even without the presence of large quantities of rheology modifiers or specific additives. The emulsifiers created exhibit limited thixotropic behaviour and their viscosity has proven to be stable over time, with very low sensitivity to variations in temperature. The product is suited for use with all of the processing methods normally employed in the cosmetics/pharmaceutical industries.

The recommended emulsification procedure is as follows:

  • Melt the oleaginous phase at 70°C.
  • Heat half of the aqueous phase, containing the emulsifier, to about 50°C. 
  • Add the oleaginous phase to the heated portion of the aqueous phase and emulsify
  • Stirring constantly, slowly add the second part of the aqueous phase, which should have been kept at room temperature, to the emulsion previously formed.
  • Process the product thoroughly using a turbo-emulsifier.
  • Add the preservative system, the fragrance and the thermolabile active ingredients.
  • Resume processing with the turbo-emulsifier and continue to stir the emulsion throughout the cooling process.

Testing moisturising ability

The formation of lattice structures in the form of liquid crystals helps to retain the aqueous phase and therefore the moisturising effect of the product created. Liquid crystal systems enhance an emulsion's moisturising power because, in this particular sort of “network”, the quantity of intralamellar water can reach very high percentages and becomes immediately available when the cream is applied to the epidermis.
Two emulsions were made to test its moisturising power: one containing OLEAMULS® OW  ( A 2 )and another( A 1 )containing a traditional emulsifying system.
Their moisturising activity was determined by means of the capacitance measurement of corneometric values. This method, which has been accepted by the international scientific community for some time now, makes it possible to measure the variance in skin electrical capacitance based on the amount of water contained in the substrate being examined. The device used is the Skin Diagnostic SD 27, equipped with a corneometric probe for measuring skin moisture levels.
The formulas of the two emulsions tested were as follows:

A1Polysorbate-60 3,0
Sorbitan Stearate 1,0
Cetearyl Alcohol 1,5
Stearic Acid 1,0
Isopropyl Myristate 2,5
SILGREEN 5,0
Aqua 85,3
EPSAN® (Polyepsylon Lysine, Sodium Anisate 0,7


A2OLEAMULS® OW 4,0
Cetearyl Alcohol 1,5
Stearic Acid 1,0
Isopropyl Myristate 2,5
SILGREEN 5,0
Aqua 85,3
EPSAN® (Polyepsylon Lysine, Sodium Anisate) 0,7

Skin moisture is measured by pressing the head of the probe against the area of skin to be analysed while holding the probe perpendicular to the skin surface itself. An H will appear on the device display, followed by the moisture value (between 0 and 99) and accompanied by an audio signal/light.
The average value of the four measurements taken on each subject is expressed using the following parameters:

Skin moisture

Very dry skin 01 – 09
Normal with a tendency towards dryness 10 – 18
Normal 19 – 27


The creams were applied, each in the same quantity and using a light massage, on ten subjects, including male and female subjects, all between 18 and 70 years of age, who were asked to wash their right and left forearms at least 2 hours before arriving.

In order to obtain a comparable response, we used the same volunteers, beginning with a preliminary measurement of the moisture values of the left and right forearms of each subject. The value recorded was obtained by calculating the average of the results measured in four points in the same area.

We then applied a weighed quantity of Cream-A1 to the left forearm, massaging lightly until it was completely absorbed. Immediately afterwards, we used the same method to apply an identical amount of Cream-A2 to the right forearm. The moisture value on the left and right forearms was measured one hour after the applications, once again by taking four measurements and calculating their average.

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Cream-A2, formulated using OLEAMULS® OW, proved to have a greater moisturising effect than Cream-A1, which had been formulated using a traditional emulsifying system( Figura 1 )

Figure 1 – Results of the moisture test

OLEAMULS® W/O

OLEAMULS® W/O ( INCI : Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate ) is versatile and highly efficacious. It forms stable W/O emulsions with a smooth and glossy appearance. They are hardly oily to the touch and are pleasant to apply. It is a nonionic emulsifier obtained by means of the esterification of polyglycerol with olive oil, a synthesis which does not involve ethylene oxide, nor does it use chemical reagents or organic solvents.

It is derived from raw materials from renewable sources:

  • Italian olive oil 
  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified).

W/O emulsions are considered to be “difficult” colloidal system in terms of winning consumer favour, as well as in terms of production and of stability. Despite these difficulties, the market for water-in-oil formulations is growing, thanks to the clear dermatological benefits these emulsions offer.

A comparative study of W/O and O/W emulsions showed that, in identical quali-quantitative conditions, immediately following application to the skin, an O/W emulsion had a stronger emollient effect than a W/O emulsion, but the effect faded rapidly. The W/O emulsion required a longer time to produce the same effect, but the skin retained the imparted softness, elasticity and sensation of well-being for a longer time. Micro-organisms are less likely to grow in W/O emulsions, since the conditions are not especially favourable to their development, given the lesser quantity of free water they contain.
On the other hand, W/O emulsions are often not cosmetically acceptable and lack lightness, spreadability and freshness OLEAMULS® W/O possesses outstanding functional and sensory properties. The emulsification procedure it requires is simple and it forms stable systems that are moisturising, emollient, and have a pleasantly light and silky feel.
It is well-suited to very gentle cosmetic formulations, recommended for sensitive subjects and for infants and children, thanks to the regenerative and protective effect it has on the natural skin barrier.
It can be used to formulate: moisturising creams and intensive moisturisers; creams, lotions and cosmetic milks for sensitive skin; night creams; creams for children; suncare and after-sun products; protective creams; foundations and other products for make-up.

The principal characteristics of OLEAMULS® WO are:

  • It is a PEG-free and palm-oil free emulsifier derived from renewable raw materials of Italian origin
  • Easy to use
  • Remarkably versatile when used in formulations and effective at dispersing pigments and sun filters
  • Extremely well-tolerated by the skin
  • Environmentally-friendly because, as a liquid, it requires less energy during processing.

Emulsification procedure

It generally requires more mechanical energy to prepare a W/O emulsion than it does to make an O/W emulsion.

The emulsifier’s liquid form simplifies the emulsification operation significantly, as it can be carried out at a low temperature (cold processing).

The recommended procedure is as follows:

  • Add the emulsifier to the oleaginous phase. If it contains solid ingredients, heat it until it attains clarity.
  • Heat half of the aqueous phase to about 50°C.
  • Add the heated portion of the aqueous phase to the oleaginous phase, pouring it in in a gradual, thin stream, with interruptions, while stirring constantly with the turbo-emulsifier.
  • Subsequently add in the second portion of the aqueous phase, the preservative system, the active ingredients and the fragrance.
  • Continue to apply the combined action of the counter-rotating turbine/turbo-emulsifier for a few minutes.

OLEAMULS® LOW

OLEAMULS® LOW ( INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Potassium Olivate) is an innovative nonionic O/W emulsifier, liquid at room temperature, and developed for cold processing.
It is derived from natural and renewable raw materials:

  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified)
  • Fatty acids from the olive tree
  • Potassium Olivate

It is able to form O/W emulsions that are particularly fresh and light, pleasantly velvety to the touch and enriched with the eudermic functional properties of the oil from which it is derived. More than a simple emulsifier, it could be called a “hydrophilic lipid”, capable of forming fluid emulsions that are particularly fresh and light.

Liquid at room temperature, OLEAMULS® LOW is soluble in plant-derived oils, fatty alcohols, and in fatty acids and their esters, and it is miscible with mineral oils. It is effective even when used in low percentages and it allows the formulation of ultra-low viscosity emulsions.
Used at a concentration of 3-5%, is able to emulsify over 15% of oils and other lipophilic ingredients when cold. It makes it possible to obtain stable high-performance products that moisturise and nourish, while imparting a pleasantly light and silky sensation. Its structure allows for a wide variety of formulation possibilities. The liquid crystals that form at the interface have a stabilising effect on the emulsion, imbuing the system with rigidity and minimising fluctuation of the components at the interphase. The emulsions obtained are therefore stable, satiny, fresh, pleasant to apply and particularly resistant to variations in temperature.

Its principal characteristics are:

  • It is a PEG-free and palm-oil free emulsifier derived from renewable raw materials of Italian origin
  • Easy to use
  • Remarkably versatile in terms of formulation and compatibility with all active ingredients
  • Extremely well-tolerated by the skin
  • Environmentally-friendly because, as a liquid, it requires less energy during the processing stage


Emulsification procedure


OLEAMULS® LOW can be used to prepare emulsions through cold-processing, with no need to heat the phases, provided that all of their ingredients are liquids. Simple devices for mixing/homogenising can be used. In such cases, once the lipophilic ingredients have been combined with the emulsifier, simply add in the aqueous phase while stirring and using the turbo-emulsifier. 

It is recommended that you prepare the emulsion in a vacuum, because the speed of the turbine generates air that may remain trapped in the product.

 

OLEAMULS W/S® 

The OLEAMULS® family has expanded to include OLEAMULS® W/S, a class of emulsifiers whose ‘originator’ has the INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, with a vast range of hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics that can be adjusted to suit the needs of the formulator. 

OLEAMULS® W/S products are made by means of the esterification of fatty acids from Italian olive oil with polyglycerol obtained through the condensation of vegetable glycerin (Ecocertified). 

The esterification process adopted by SOCRI makes it possible to obtain stable products with excellent skin and oral compatibility and very low acidity; they retain the eudermic and functional properties of the oil from which they are derived unaltered.

The polymers that are obtained have a number of different hydrophilic and lipophilic behaviours and are well-suited for the most diverse cosmetic and/or cosmeceutical uses.

They can therefore be used to create products that are tailormade to suit the customer’s needs, from complete solubility in oil to complete solubility in water.

Regardless of molecular weight, OLEAMULS® W/S are edible, given that the body breaks them down completely to produce glycerol and fatty acid. 

This versatile group of compounds is useful for producing extremely stable, non-toxic, completely biodegradable and safe O/W and W/O emulsions. A wide range of OLEAMULS® W/S are available, for different HLB values. 

OLEAMULS® W/S is derived from renewable and certified sources: 

  • Italian olive oil 
  • Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin (Eco-certified)

OLEAMULS® W/S possesses very interesting characteristics as an O/W emulsifier and a co-emulsifier for W/O emulsions. When added to vegetable oils or esters, it strengthens the defences of the hydrolipidic film; it decreases TEWL; and it leaves a pleasant sensation of freshness on the skin. 



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